Video on how to draw the pattern of the perfect sleeve

 

Your start there

Go through that stage

And finish there

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Some general thoughts on sleeve constructions.

  • there is no block for sleeves : you have to construct a new one from scratch for every garments.
  • You need two measurements : the armhole length for back and front, and the armhole depth which will determine the height of the crown (but that measurement is not that necessary (look at what follows)
  • ¬†You can determine arbitrarily the crown height. The classic formula is that the crown height is equal to the armhole depth (measured on the construction) less its fifth!!!!!

That value will give you a comfortable height for a tailored or shirt sleeve.

  • With my method the crown can be chosen and the sleeve width will be adjusted accordingly ( the lower the crown, the wider the sleeve).

 

All the sleeves on the manequin fit the same armhole

5 differents sleeves on the same sleeve frame : they will fit the same armhole.

IMG_2147 sleeves

The lower the crown will be, the flatter the curve crown will be. The flatter the curve will be, the less we have to stick to the construction points (the 2cm down for the front and the 1 cm down for the back).

We can have negative inverted crowns, yes we caninverted sleeveDoes it remind you of dolmen sleeve ????

 

Video on the construction

 


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